New Rings are almost here!

Stacking Pearl Rings

I’m a bit obsessed with stacking rings - I think it relates to my love of all things Wendy Ramshaw (I’ve written about here before, you can follow the link to find out more about this iconic British woman goldsmith). This is my latest iteration of elegant stacking rings in sterling silver - with pearl. You can see some of these in person at the Craft Ontario Shop, but I’ve been working on some new ones that are coming to Jewel Envy soon!

In the spirit of waste not, want not, I use the cutouts from my M cells to form the pearl cups on the rings, so I like to think of them as my “nuclei rings” :). It’s a little secret story that you don’t know about unless you know about it! Yes, it makes my little geeky science heart happy! And each one is different from the next one!

Yellow gold brooch to White Gold Bling!

I love interesting custom re-designs of jewellery. This is one I did recently. The client brought in this sentimental brooch, with the intention of making it into two new pieces, this is one of them.

Original brooch

Now, she’s not particularly fond of yellow gold, and she’s not really what I would call very traditional, which is always fun! So, the brief was that she wanted a white gold ring, re-working the sapphire and diamond cluster. She said that she liked negative space, and I knew from previously that she liked architecture. She also liked the Diana-esque esthetic, and wanted something that would nod at the Princess Diana engagement ring. The sapphire was also particularly lovely in colour, but wasn’t very lively, partly because of the setting it was in, so I tried to do something about that as well.

trying out a wax element

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Trying out the wax some more!

Finished ring before setting

Finished Ring

Finished Ring - Side view

So, the final ring, with an exploded halo on levels, which allows some light around the stone, with a modern feel to a classic!

Have something hanging around your jewellery box that you’re not sure what to do with now? Let’s start a conversation!

New custom T bar pendant

I love it when people buy my stuff (seriously, the validation of someone actually wanting to own something that I made really never gets old— thank you so much to all the people out there that own a little piece of my creativity!). But, as I’ve said before, I like to do custom work too. I had a recent order that sort of combined both — a piece that I designed as part of my ongoing obsession with all things immunity, but in a bespoke combination!

Here it is: my sterling silver T bar pendant on a string of beautiful garnet beads with garnet needled felt, with a special flower motif.

Kilt and jewellery crossover!

I love being a one-stop-shop for all things kilty related! I had the fun of outfitting a gentleman with a kilt, and fly plaid, as well as an original fly plaid pin and kilt pin before Christmas. I love the zen of stitching, and I get such a kick out of helping someone realize the perfect outfit!

The MacKay Modern tartan, with garter flashes

Sterling silver fly plaid brooch and kilt pin. These were both based on the clan crest, which features an upheld dagger, with the motto “with a strong fist” and the kilt pin was don'e deliberately to match the fly plaid brooch. Both have been subtly oxidised in selected locations to highlight the texture and levels in both pieces.

Since the client hadn’t worn full dress before, we had a bit of a fashion show before he departed (yes, I work at home!). He looks pretty spiffy in all the trimmings!

An outfit to last for ages! I love it when a plan comes together! Want your very own kilt? Or clan jewellery to add to an existing outfit?

Exciting pop up Maker's Market!

I'm quite excited about doing a pop up next week!  You may not know this about me, but I curl.  It's amazing.  I only started about four years ago, and I wish I'd started 20 years ago, I love it that much!  Anyway, I curl with the Women's League at the Royal Canadian Curling Club, and this holiday season, we're doing a little market on Wednesday December 6th, 6:30-9:30 pm, featuring Curling Themed crafts, Hand-Crafted Jewellery, Kids' Gifts and Snacks.  Stop by the club and see what the creative ladies of curling can do!  As a wee incentive, I'll have new pieces, hot off my bench that are priced nicely for holiday presents, that NO ONE has had access to yet! If you're looking for contemporary and Science Art jewellery gifts, you know I've got you covered! (And, if you can't make the popup, you can always visit my shop page, or email me for some options!)

:Sterling silver, hammered texture with high cut lapis lazuli beads, pendant and earrings

I made a thing-- with a friend!

I was sad to miss the Living Room Show and Sale (I ended up having the dreaded Covid and couldn’t attend).  My friend and colleague Carolina and I unveiled an art collaboration that weekend that we have been working on for a number of months, and I’m sharing a bit about it here .

I first met Carolina over a year ago, and one of the things that I noticed about her work, and our conversations was an interest in networks and I thought, hey!  immunology is all about networks.  I'd been wanting to do a collaboration for a while. Carolina’s sensibilities appealed to me, and I really admire what she does with thread.  A lot of my work is based on the systems, cells and concepts of the immune system, and with the pandemic, it seemed rather timely to work out some ideas about the pandemic through a nice collaborative project.  So we did. The final result came out of conversations, and some experimentation with some ideas about some new jewellery work I wanted to undertake.  So, I present to you ImmUnity.  I hope that if you haven't seen it in person yet, at some point you will be able to!

My contributions explore three different elements: some of the major player cells of the immune system,  how some processes within the immune system work, and some explorations of the way in which people behaved during the pandemic in various situations, and how that relates to our perceptions of public health in general. Overall, we are all interconnected, whether we wish to be or not, despite our differences.

Carolina created crocheted cellular shapes that representf the concept of herd immunity from an intuitive approach. We're constantly in contact with invisible-to-the-eye organisms and our bodies work relentlessly to neutralise them, to keep us healthy. The dynamics of cell populations in the body mirrors what happens at a large scale in human populations. Each unit neutralises the pathogen and with the knowledge of this process, works towards protecting the community whether they are made of cells or humans.
 
Binding the shapes into a cohesive whole simultaneously shows the strength and the fragility of coming together.

I feel tremendously privileged to have been able to work with Carolina on this project, and it really fed something creative in me this year, as well as helping to process some of my thoughts and feelings about what happened with the pandemic over the last few years.

I made the fabric discs using different quilting and embroidery techniques, and it needs to be seen in person to really appreciate the 3-dimensional nature of the panels and the crocheted elements!

Macrophage/monocyte infected with fluorescent bacteria, B cells and their antibodies (which can be secreted from the cell, T cells with their unique receptors, Blood cells(Left bottom, left top, right top, right bottom).  The brooches are 5cm in diameter.

In parallel with the art collaboration, I had started working on a new series of work, which I am calling the Portholes on Immunity.  They follow a similar theme, in that they are all about cells and systems in the immune system, but in a smaller, wearable format.  I've started with four brooches.  They're 5 cm in diameter, with sterling silver frames and a handmade brooch back, with quilted, embroidered, and trapunto'd aspects (trapunto is a quilting technique where you stuff extra layers of batting in small areas to create a more raised effect-- it's quite fun!). I used plain oakshott cotton for the base, quite deliberately. Shot cottons are formed of two colours- 1 in the warp, and 1 in the weft, giving them a characteristic sheen, and appearing, sometimes quite startlingly, different colours depending on how the light hits them.  This really is congruous for me with the way that the immune system has many different facets, and you get different results depending on the situation.

I love a good story!

I love doing custom work with a good story behind it. It’s indescribable the joy I can get from helping someone realize a vision (even one they didn’t have), while salvaging sentimental bits. The client for this project came in with a broken engagement ring, that had been sitting in a drawer for many years (it had cracked down the sizing join). She decided it was high time to have it re-done. She also had a number of different rings from her parents and grandparents, including a number of other diamonds, in addition to the lovely trillion garnet in the original ring. After some back and forth, we settled on a spectacular statement ring, incorporating all the diamonds and the trillion garnet, as well as bits of gold from all the rings that were very sentimental for her (including the original engagement ring!). The rest of the gold was refined from broken bits that she had rolling around her jewellery box.

All the rings that contributed old gold to the new ring! It was a bit of a mishmash of different karat weights!

We settled eventually on a design of a Faerie Leaf Crown, of oak and ivy leaves— this totally suits the client’s pagan sensibitilites!

Once the carving was done, I cast the ring in two pieces - the base ring and the crown.

Here they are, fresh out of the casting flask!

Then it was just clean up, joining the two, and getting the stones set. The final ring was amazing, and the client loved it!

Here it is on her finger :)

Here’s a closer view, there are some small diamonds nestled into the leaves at the sides!

Got stuff rolling around the bottom of your jewellery box that you can’t part with, but wish you wanted to wear more? Send me an email and let’s talk about what can be done! this ring was almost entirely paid for with the sale of old metal that the client had hanging around.

Surface finishes- a short guide

Everyone knows the obvious way to finish stirling silver— that awesome high mirror shine polish. I do alot of this, but it’s not my favourite way of finishing. Here are some other ways that I like to finish my silver jewellery.

Mirror Polish on the Stem Cell pendant

I love the high polish on these pieces, particularly with the felt in the “nuclei” of the “cells”

OXIDATION: This is the process of blackening the surface of the silver, this is really a process where you take the oxidation (or tarnishing, as most people would think it!) of the surface to completion. I love this treatment, I like the blackened look. However, it also is great to highlight texture on silver, as you can blacken the metal, and then partially repolish the surface. This is a common technique. I use a special solution, but actually, you can do it with eggs and a sealed container (because there is sulfur in eggs, and this causes tarnish!). The only drawback is that it is not a permanent finish, and on areas that it contacts skin, or rubs against other surfaces, it will eventually wear. Also, in very humid environments, and depending on your skin chemistry, it can wear faster or slower. The good news is, that it’s fairly easy to renew the finish! And I seal the surface of my pieces, which also helps to prolong the life of the patina.

Oxidation and the M pendant

I love the contrast between the dark silver surface and the teal felt. The darkened surface really helps the colour of the felt pop!

MATTE: Not everyone likes such a high shine on their jewellery, and it can make it hard to discern detail in alot of pieces. One option is to go for a natural silver finish, that is matte. Here, the piece is finished to the same high quality as to achieve a mirror polish, but then I rub it with very fine sand paper, to take the shine off again. I like to use this alot. It gives a nice soft silver sheen to the surface, and really allows the design to shine.

Matte finish on my spillage ring

If you look closely, you can see the difference between the shine on the inside surface of the ring, and the matte finish of the surface of the ring.

SAND BLASTING: This is a kind of matte finish, but adds an additional appearance of texture. The piece is finished to a high polish, and then a special machine with glass or stone (our machine uses ruby!) particles is used to bombard the surface of the metal, cutting into the surface, and giving it the characteristic texture.

Sandblasting on RBC half hoop earrings

Sandblasting gives an almost sparkle to the surface of these earrings, giving them a different look to many other pieces.

I love being able to finish things in different ways, it helps bring an additional dimension to jewellery. How about you? What’s your favourite finish?

Living Room Show + Sale this Saturday!

I’m so excited that I’m going to be participating in my very first Living Room show and sale this Saturday! My colleague and friend, textile artist Carolina Reis, invited me to exhibit with her this coming Saturday, October 14th from the comfort of her living room! This is a unique opportunity to see new work that we’ve been working on, and enjoy some relaxed conversation, and refreshments.

We’ll be around from 2-6pm, and you’re welcome to drop by! It would be great if you could RSVP, so we know how much food and drink to have on hand!

I don’t want to spoil the surprises in store for you, but here’s some hints….

New Red Blood Cell series of jewellery: Red Blood cells are vital for life.  Did you know that in humans they don't have a nucleus?  This means that they don't have DNA, and gives them their characteristic "donut" shape.

These light, contemporary interpretations of flowing blood cells are cast in sterling silver, and finished by hand.

Here’s a teaser — if you want to see what I’ve done with all the little panels I’ve been working on recently, come out on Saturday and see the finished items!

Focus on Stem Cells - Collaboration piece

Stem cells. What do you know about them? With the rise of the concept of stem cells, you’ve probably heard them both exalted and vilified in the media. There’s a lot of hype. What you may not know is that the original identified stem cell was actually the blood cell stem cell or hematopoietic stem cell (see what I did there? It all comes back to immunology!). In fact, HSCs have been in use for therapy for a long time, particularly for cancer treatment. You can read in more detail about this on the Canadian Cancer Society website, which has a nice, accessible description about it.

While most stem cell therapies remain more science fiction than science fact, there is a lot of research happening around stem cells, and understanding their development, as well as how they can be used to intervene in health and other areas of biology. One researcher focusing on this area is my colleague and friend, Prof. Jennifer Mitchell, based at the Cell and Systems Design Department of University of Toronto. So, when she approached me about designing some special pieces for her, I was excited about the opportunity to work with her again. I had made a one-off piece for her previously: a representational ball of stem cells, in my early days of designing. This time, the brief was to revisit that piece, evoking her focus of using embryonic stem cells models to understand how the develop into other cell types.

A hint of the first piece I made in 2019, alongside the microscopic image of a stained ball of ES cells. The blue staining is a nuclear (DNA) stain that fluoresces blue under the right wavelength of light!

I fabricated this one, and it had alot of features that I liked, but it had some aspects that I wanted to fine tune more, so it was great to have a chance to reconsider this design for something that I could produce again in the future. This time, I went the casting route, and carved something in wax.

Wax model of stem cell ball

This allowed me to make something flatter, but still with a lot of dimension. I then added a back plate to close it, a simple, hidden bail, and added the felt, and voila! A new sophisticated cousin was born.

Finished pendant, sterling silver with needled blue felt

I’m loving the way it turned out (and Jen was pretty pleased too!). You can see one of these on display in Cell Systems and Biology, if you’re passing that way, along with more explanation about Prof. Mitchell’s research. Want one of your very own, or know someone who would? You can visit my Shop Page to get one!